By: Scott
Fratcher - Marine Engineer/Captain
On the hunt
The warm tropical sun shines high above in the clear blue sky.
The smell of coconuts wafts through the air as we scan the water
ahead for motion. A sliver of silver is seen and the excitement
builds as we wade toward our quarry. A large bonefish working
the flats of a remote atoll is unaware of our presence. The angler
stands up straight, takes aim and casts. An ideal arc is made
draping the line in a gentle slope landing a fly right in front
of our quarry. We wait five seconds for the fly to sink and catch
our fish’s attention. The bonefish’s eye glances downward.
The angler stands perfectly still and twitches the line. The bonefish
can’t resist our hand tied “shrimp” and lunges
at the fly. The rod is pointed toward the fish and a palm held
against the reel to take up tension and set the hook.
The bonefish explodes away from the angler, and the sleigh ride
begins. The rod is held 90 degrees to the fish. The reel lets
out a long screech and the line cuts the water in a long arc.
The bonefish heads for the horizon, but is turned. He swims for
the surface just a half meter away, arcs, and aims to wrap the
line around a coral head.
Again he is turned and now charging straight toward the rod.
We clearly see into the green/blue water. Our bonefish is enraged
and fights along the surface. The angler works the reel attempting
to bring the fish in quick to release him early, increasing the
hook and release survival rate.
From the edge of our vision a green flash streaks through the
water. A black point vibrates across the surface of the calm water.
The motion is too fast to focus on, but we know the movement of
a black tip shark. It will take a team effort to save our fish.
“Stomp him, stomp him,” Ross calls. I run across to
the shark’s path aiming to turn him away from our prey.
The black tip makes a quick direction change, rounds and begins
a slower approach from behind. More sharks appear attracted by
the commotion, looking for an easy feed. It’s now or never.
Ross reels in his fish, reaches a hand under the belly and raises
the silver body clear of the water. A quick photo, a last charge
of the shark and our hearts pumping, we’re ready to release.
This is saltwater flyfishing and one of the most addictive sports
on the planet. Once hooked on the thrill of a bonefish run fishermen
have been known to devote their lives to seeking out remote locations
nearly untouched by civilization in an attempt to cast a fly into
virgin water.
In this article were going to present a saltwater fishing primer
of the South Pacific. We’ll discuss how and where to fish
from a yacht, dingy and for those considering entering the sport
of flyfishing we’ll provide an easy first time instruction
on the equipment needed and of course where to flyfish.
The information presented in this article is taken from a loop
through the Pacific aboard Mariah, a Catana 582 luxury catamaran.
Normally stationed in the Tongan as the flagship of the fully
crewed Moorings charter fleet we drove this magnificent vessel
1800 miles upwind, to the Tuamotus to begin our hunt.
Flyfishing
Flyfishing is considered the most sporting fishing technique
yet developed. A hook and release activity that is a game of cat
and mouse where the fisherman must know his quarry well enough
to predict his chosen food source and place of feeding.
Light line, small rods, and holes for fish to hide inside increase
the sport. The fish is played to the fisherman where he is normally
released slightly worse for the wear.
Finding a bonefish
The first step to catching a bonefish is finding a “flat”
where they thrive. Flats are the shallow areas inside a reef in
water about knee to ankle deep and show up as white areas on Google
Earth.
Bonefish feed in the flats, on the “sand” or downwind
side of the island. Generally the weather side of the island has
flats of coral that show up as blue on Google Earth, while the
lee side has flats of sand. This is because the complete atoll
might be thought of as a large gold pan. The light material is
pushed to the lee side, while the heavier material stays near
the weather side. This means in the South Pacific look to the
North West corner of an atoll for a white sand patch.
Bonefish feeding ground
In order for bonefish to survive they need a food source. When
hunting for good bonefish grounds look at the sand and check for
abundant food sources such as clams, shrimp, worms or evidence
of life.
Nets and where bonefish are not
Bonefish are particularly susceptible to gill nets. Generally
any island that allows gill nets won’t have bonefish. In
such areas consider throwing a fly for the ever present trigger
fish that also provide a great fight. Often an island will prohibit
gillnets, but in reality the carnage continues. While walking
the reef keep an eye out for bits of torn nets as evidence of
previous net fishing.
Fly-fishing history
Bone fishing is a type of fly-fishing. Fly-fishing history goes
back to early Europe where one of the first books to come from
the new printing presses in the 1400’s provided instructions
on bone fishing technique.
Early technique included throwing a “cast” of flies
where six or eight flies were tied to a single line. Using a cane
rod, gut leader that had to be dried every night and silk line
were all part of early fly-fishing.
Today high tech fish line, graphite rods, composite reels and
complete sun protection accompany the modern bone fisherman. Still
the sport is basically unchanged in the last 500 years.
Fly-fishing mysteries
A mystery noticed by fly-fishermen is the “professional
courtesy” provided by sharks, to sharks hooked on a fish
line. Sharks will often follow and attack a hooked fish, but they
never seem to attack a hooked shark.
A second fly-fishing mystery is why South Pacific fly-fishing
has never taken off as tourist bonanza tour operators hoped it
would. Probably the main reason is the inconsistency in successful
fishing expeditions. Often a fishing spot will provide a steady
series of hits one day only to have the fish ignore the same flies
in the same wind and the same sun the next day. This inconsistency
has left a poor taste in some fisherman’s mouth and is considered
one of the prime reasons the sport is still relatively untapped
in the vast Pacific.
Luckily opportunities for fishing in the South Pacific abound.
If the fish are not biting on flies try a troll for tuna just
outside the pass, or drive the skiff just outside the reef casting
a popper into the surf line trying to land a giant travallie or
any of the many other reef fish.
Starting your fly-fish experience
Fly-fishing is challenging but rewarding sport to learn. The
cast can be learned in a day and the equipment purchased at most
fishing shops. Predicting the fish’s behavior and building
cast accuracy can take a lifetime and is where the real skill
comes into play. Some tips to help get started are-
- Most guides recommend taking casting lesson. The casting
technique is relatively easy and can often be learned in a day
with a little guidance, but it takes time to build a consistent
accurate cast.
- Practice in your spare time trying to land a fly inside a
hula-hoop from ten meters. Then aim for a hat, and finally a
teacup.
- Wear eye protection. More than one fly fisherman has ended
up having a hook removed from his face while learning the cast.
- Hire a local guide. A guide knows the best spots and can
start a fisherman with a winning experience.
- Buy a good salt water reel with a good drag, wading boots
(booties do not provide enough protection from shoe filling
coral), and sun protection.
- Read “Bone fishing” by Randle Kaufmaun.
Light or heavy test line
The controversy about a light line fight for maximum fight or
a heavy line to get the fish in and released still rages. Most
guides want to see the fish survive the experience to be caught
again so they recommend a heavier line to pull the fish in quickly
thus reducing the stress on the fish to give it a better chance
to avoid a shark attack when released.
Best Fly
Choosing best fly to throw is a matter of much opinion and discussion.
Pink and white is generally a good combination, while chartreuse
has been a steady winner.
Tip-A #4 Clousemen (white) have been reported
an all around good performer in the South Pacific.
Best fishing conditions
In order to cast a fly to a fish we have to be able to see the
fish. This is done by walking the flats scanning ahead first a
short distance like five meters, then again about twenty meters.
Look for “nervious” water, or areas of disturbed water
on the surface. Scan for dark spots looking for relative motion
indicating a moving fish.
Use the sun to your advantage. Ten till two is the best time
to flyfish because of the visibility provided by overhead sun.
Walk with the sun behind
A light wind from behind is considered near perfect conditions.
Too much chop prevents views into the water, and no wind allows
the fish to see out of the water revealing the fisherman above.
Toau
Toau in the Tuamutos has become a bone fisherman's hidden haven.
The large flats, beautiful surroundings, and reputation for friendly
dining have helped build a well deserved reputation. Flights are
available to the two surrounding islands (Fakarava and Apitaki)
and a lodge with two bungalows and transportation to the flats
is available. Toau is a private atoll with less than a dozen local
residents that rigidly enforce the “no nets” policy.
Contact Alaskaflyshop@gmail.com for more information
Sharks?
Sharks and salt water fly-fishing go together. Sharks work the
shallow flats and are often seen during a fishing expedition.
Luckily actual shark attacks are nearly unheard of. Most often
a shark will follow a caught fish toward the fisherman only to
retreat at the last moment. Sometimes a quick stomp into the water
will drive the small shark away but most times they keep their
distance.
There are two specific warnings about sharks that should be kept
in mind. New born sharks and Lemon sharks should be watched for.
- When walking in the sand a disturbed cloudy trail is left
that may attacks baby sharks. These eight to ten inch sharks
could possibly become confused and snap at your feet in the
low visibility. If babies begin to follow the sand trail simply
stop walking and let the current clear the water.
- The Lemon shark has been known to become aggressive. Lemon
in color with two dorsal fins of the same height they should
be left alone. Fish books describe the Lemon shark as “easily
enraged”. Often the lemon sharks are seen drifting slowly
through the flats and should be left alone. Actual Lemon shark
attacks are very rare.
Flyfish a shark
Some fishermen will cast toward the sharks because of the strong
fights they provide. Sharks don’t often strike at a fly
even when it’s landed right in front of them. This is because
sharks tend to have poor eyesight and flies don’t give off
the electrical signal sharks use to find prey.
If a shark fight is sought be careful of the line cutting sharp
teeth. The trick is to set the hook the instant the shark bites
thus hooking his lip away from the cutting teeth.
Bonefish or milkfish
Milkfish are often mistaken for bonefish. To the novice they
look similar and both give a great fight, but the milkfish is
an algae eater and only occasionally will get hooked due to a
mouth snag. To tell the difference between the two similar fish
notice the position of the fish. Bonefish tend to swim along the
bottom while the milkfish swim higher in the water column. Milkfish
also have a tail that looks similar to a tuna.
Reports from local fly fisherman
Great
Christmas
Island-When pacific fishermen think bonefish they think Christmas
Island. The single flight a week from Hawaii is chocked full of
bone fishermen waiting for their shot at the many blue lagoons.
Good
- Tao (North blind pass)
- Makemo
- Tepoto (beautiful, no pass)
- New Caledonia
Fair
- Vava'u Tonga (Blue Lagoon)
Bad
- Apataki
- RaoRoia (sharky)
- Beverage Reef
Using Google Earth and navigating around atolls
The charts of South Pacific are notoriously inaccurate with some
reports of islands up to five miles off location. One trick is
to compare the radar return to the chart to get an early idea
of error.
Approach islands during daylight and prepare to stand off at
night. Once within the reef a close up from Google Earth has become
the chart of choice. The color shows the depth and the accuracy
is near perfect. Some chart kits now have satellite images overlaid
on the chart that show most coral heads adding security to reef
navigation.
New satellite charts tend to show most dangers within a reef,
but it’s still imperative to restrict all yacht movement
between the hours of 10am and 2pm with a good sun overhead in
order to see the green patches indicating boat crunching coral.
Tip-Some satellite charts show large areas of white checkered
markings covering areas of the lagoon. This is where a cloud obscured
the original image and the area under should be considered uncharted.
What about the woman?
Fishing charters have generally been thought of as a man’s
sport. A few specialty boats now offer the woman activities while
the men spend the day in the skiff or on the flats.
Captain Allison Thompson (Yachtmaster/Ocean-Yoga instructor)
leads activities such as
- yoga,
- ayurvedic lifestyle classes,
- chakra analysis,
- cooking classes,
- Bach flower study,
- mud mask/hair oil beauty day, and
- guided snorkeling
that allow the woman to have “real” vacation coupled
to the “men’s” sport. Contact
Captain Allison for more information.
Accommodations
Flyfishing is most often done in remote locations. While some
rugged individuals may camp on the beach most anglers will want
to stay in a lodge or better, a boat where the daily fishing expedition
can be made in comfort or even luxury.
We fished from a Catana 582 catamaran with air conditioning,
guided daily fishing expeditions, open bar, and nourishing home
cooked meals waiting at the end of a successful fishing day.
Basic starter kit
The kits listed below are by noted Polynesian flyfishing expert
Ross Novak who has spent years guiding, instructing and searching
the world for the best fishing deals. The kits listed below are
recommended as entry level kits designed to give the experience
of fishing, with good longevity of the gear without the high cost
often associated with specialty gear.
On a flyfishing vacation there are three basic types of fishing
the angler has access to.
- Flyfishing
- Casting
- Trolling
We want to be set up for all three types of fishing so we can
continue to fish when flyfishing conditions are less than perfect.
Let’s take a look at the basic guide recommended starter
kits for each type of fishing.
Flyfishing
* Ross CLA reel
* Sage Z axis rod
* 8 weight sharkskin line
Casting
* Shimano Calcuta 400CE reel
* Shimano Travalla 5-7ft rod
* 60 lb test braid
Trolling
* Penn Senitor 6-0
* Stand up rod (6ft for a yacht/4ft for launch)
* 100lb braid (or for real economy 50lb mono)
Further exploration
- The video “The
Search” is a real life drama of South Pacific fly-fishing
and worth a watch.
- A
River Runs through It”, directed by Robert Redford
has been credited with a resurgence in fly-fishing and can be
rented at your local video store.
- Contact Yachtwork@gmail.com
to arrange a charter expedition in the South Pacific aboard
a luxury Catana 58
To book-click here and contact
us. Hurry, these deals won’t last long.
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How
to Salt Water Fly Fish-A guide
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